Tucked away in the wild folds of the Upper Staffora Valley, Ceregate is a place out of time, captivating with its mysterious aura and the haunting silence that surrounds its ruins. In an era dominated by speed and technology, immersing yourself in a ghost village of the Oltrepò Pavese means taking a genuine break—one made of dirt paths, quiet woods, and stone houses that whisper forgotten stories. This hike leads us to rediscover a little-known yet incredibly evocative corner of our region, thanks to the invaluable mapping and promotion work by the page camminandoinoltrepò.
If you love nature walks, abandoned places full of charm, and the feeling of stepping back in time, this itinerary is for you: a journey among the remnants of a village that has withstood time and now comes back to life through the slow footsteps of curious hikers.
The Starting Point: Cegni and the Charm of the Valley
Our journey begins in Cegni, a hamlet of Santa Margherita Staffora, where we park near the local church. The route to Ceregate covers about 8 kilometers round-trip and unfolds along a dirt road offering breathtaking views and direct contact with nature. The trail passes through the village, alongside an old stone washhouse, and continues up a wooded path marked by a wooden sign that points toward the ancient hamlet.
To the Abandoned Village: Streams, Waterfalls, and Silence
Following the path’s gentle ups and downs, we cross a small stream featuring a picturesque little waterfall—perfect for a photo stop. The hike first takes us to Lago, a cluster of now-ruined houses, and then finally to Ceregate, the emotional (or perhaps suspended) core of this experience.
Ceregate: The Village Where Time Stood Still
Once inhabited by five families with no electricity or services, Ceregate was abandoned in 1986 when Carlo Buscaglia, its last resident, left the village for good. Today, the stone houses, swallowed by vegetation, tell of a simple, self-sufficient life far from modernity. It is a small miracle of cultural survival, best visited in silence and respect, which comes alive only on religious holidays.
Returning to Cegni: Spirituality and Local Hospitality
The return follows the same path, with a recommended detour to the Church of San Rocco, a small architectural gem surrounded by greenery, and a final stop at Bar Cà del Jack, the social heart of the hamlet. It’s the perfect way to end this Oltrepò Pavese hike—rich in spirituality, history, and a warm sense of community.
An Experience Not to Be Missed
Ceregate is more than just a hike—it’s a journey through time. Thanks to camminandoinoltrepò, rediscovering this ghost village means reclaiming the value of slowness, observation, and respect for what once was. An open invitation to all nature lovers, photographers, trekkers, and seekers of memory.
